Founded in Naples in 1930, Rubinacci has a high developed sense of sartorial regional identity. Among the distinguishing characteristic of a Neapolitan tailored Rubinacci coat is the way that the shoulders are fitted.
The shoulder seam is not butted but has the appearance of the shoulder seam of a shirt where the fabric of the sleeve is gathered and goes under the shoulder rather than against it. Moreover, the result, especially with minimal padding at the shoulder, is a softer line.
For Mariano Rubinacci a coat should be like a second skin, cut for comfort and easy movements, with a high armhole and a narrow shoulder, that follows the natural silhouette of the body rather than imposing one. Moreover, the Neapolitan style coat is characterized by a wider sleeve, once again so as not to restrict the wearer.
The combination of minimal use of padding, wadding, canvas and lining, together with supremely comfortable form-fitting cut, engender an appealing informality ; regarding the pockets Mr Rubinacci is a great fan of patch pockets, which are very Neapolitan. There are also other little visual cues that mark out a Naples style garment.
Sometimes welted pocket are cut ‘a barchetta style with a curve to them, and at the cuff the buttons rest ever so slightly one on top of the other, the sort of playful faintly decadent touch that is so very Neapolitan.
